Liveaboard Diving in Thailand - The guestbook of the Chinese Sailing Junk "June Hong Chian Lee"

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Liveaboard Diving in Thailand and Burma - The guestbook of the Chinese Sailing Junk  June Hong Chian Lee

Come and explore with us the fantastic dive sites
 around Phuket
and we'll show you 
a breathtaking underwater world.

Excerpts from ISB (international School  Bangkok) log February 2007.

·       Dinner was fantastic.  I wanted to eat more and more but my stomach didn’t allow me.

·       After all our dives we started to put up the sails, which is hard to do and you appreciate the crew members for all their work they have done for us.

·       When the sails were finally up, Mick let us jump off the boat and hold onto a float.  We pulled like crazy to get back.  Never tell me boats are slow.  I was dead tired from just hanging on the rope; that boat was crazy strong.

·       We were all sleeping on the deck… and we saw the craziest shooting star which lasted for about 5 seconds.

·       Nature is such an amazing thing.

·       When I got diving underwater, I was in another world.  Corals and fish were forming a paradise.

·       ….the life underwater….They all have different kinds and groups as we all have different nationalities….the most similar point between them and us was that we are living in a very dangerous world.

·       The feeling of the rocks soaring  above us, while diving, made me feel like an ant.

·       While Mick was concentrating on the small things camouflaged in the hard corals, I glared at the endless blue ocean hoping to see even a shadow of such an enormous creature.

·       Even under 20m in the water... I could hear my  dive buddies screaming, and of course, I was screaming too.  I wanted to ride on the back of a manta ray but I knew it was impossible.  Anyhow, just seeing such a marvelous creature during the dive made my day.

·       I was amazed by the fact that something that I had never seen in my life while diving, was swimming right above me and also something that was much larger than me was looking at me.

·       One of the octopuses I saw while I was diving by myself was crazy!  It camouflaged itself in the corals but the eyes are what gave it away.  I never knew how they move underwater but it was so strange it made me nervous being around it.

 

February 2007

Phuket Thailand early January 2005

My wife and I have spent the last two weeks diving aboard “The Junk”, visiting dive sites from the Similan Islands to the Surin Islands. The dive sites visited were excellent. We have been diving the Red Sea on several occasions, Caribbean Islands and last Christmas we spent three weeks on Phi Phi island, diving every day.

 However, the dives, 29 in total, were very good.  Very slight damage was observed, this was caused by the earthquake of December 26th. We would highly recommend the dive sites we visited, we saw so many varieties of fish, both large and small. The negative feedback we are hearing about is “rubbish”, we strongly recommend that you get wet and go diving to see for yourself, it’s very beautiful, nowhere, yet, compare to these very good diving sites.

                                        T.B.Cook ( DM #628050)

                                        A.S.Cook ( Rescue Diver).  

 

 In retrospect, overall the diving in Thailand on “The Junk” was impressive. The journey began in the Similan islands on December 31st 2004. Even though I have had dives all over the world, from the Caribbean to Africa, the first dives I experienced after the tsunami were (on a scale of 1 to 10) at least a 7 or 8. I was the only person that did not cancel my trip, on “The Junk”, from December 30th to January 5th. I think that those that did cancel have missed an opportunity of a lifetime. Through the days of diving there was talk of 0-5% to 30%, destruction of reefs. Only isolated dives were affected with some dives being utilised, which had been closed for years. Ko Bon and Ko Tachai did have some limited damage, but with a few divers cleaning the area, the diving will be as it was before the tsunami.

                                        Marc M Girardot       

 We have just completed two weeks diving aboard  “The Junk” run by the Dive Inn co. from Patong Beach, Phuket.

 We boarded “The Junk” on the 24th of December and spent Christmas day diving the sites around the southern Similan islands. These were good dives with abundant coral and masses of fish life.

 On the 26th of December we completed an early morning dive at “The Pinnacles” and then made our way to Koh Bon island, where the crew and dive instructors noticed a change in the water around the island, and then we heard, on the radio, that the earthquake had struck in Sumatra. Needless to say, there was no more diving that day.

 We continued with the trip and completed some wonderful dives, where the coral was still totally intact and others where there had been slight damage.

 The following week we were unable to go to Phi Phi island to continue our holiday and decided to remain on “The Junk” for another trip.

 This trip was extremely interesting as the dive crew and divers did not know what to expect on each dive. We were relieved to find that there had been very little major damage to any of the dive sites that were dived.

 The main dive site that we found had sustained major damage was “The Hideaway” on Similan island number 9.

 The rest of the dives (totalling 19) were excellent, with many areas still intact and very little damage. The fish life appears to have not been affected and we saw leopard sharks, rays of various sorts and fish of many species, which do not seem to have been affected at all.

 The diving, both before and after the earthquake has been excellent, divers should not be put off by the media reports of devastation throughout the islands.

 We would recommend that you come and see for yourself and not to cancel any liveaboard holidays.

                                    Steve Kell (Assistant Instructor #609585)

 

My wife and I have spent the last two weeks aboard “The Junk”, visiting dive sites from the Similan Islands to the Surin Islands. The dive sites visited were excellent. We have dived the Red Sea on several occasions, Caribbean Islands and last Christmas we spent three weeks on Phi Phi island, diving every day.

 However, the dives, 29 in total, were very good.  Very slight damage was observed, this was caused by the earthquake of December 26th. We would highly recommend the dive sites we visited, we saw so many varieties of fish, both large and small. The negative feedback we are hearing about is “rubbish”, we strongly recommend that you get wet and see for yourself, it’s very beautiful, nowhere, yet, compare to these very good dive sites.

                                        T.B.Cook ( DM #628050)

                                        A.S.Cook ( Rescue Diver).  

We are not very experienced divers and only passed our Advanced Open Water course on the 20th of December 2004, with 9 dives under our belts. We left with “The Junk” on our first liveaboard trip on Christmas Eve 2004, and received news of the earthquake in the afternoon of Boxing Day.

 Although we had only made 5 dives before the tsunami, we still found the diving, the condition of the corals and the marine life ( post tsunami) absolutely fantastic, okay, you can see evidence of damaged corals, at certain sites, more than others, but it was only the prospect of aftershocks and tidal conditions that made an effect upon subsequent dives. This was totally appreciated from a safety point of view and we would expect the same amount of caution to be exercised with any professional crew worth their salt !

 We enjoyed the trip so much that we decided to come straight out for the following one (that in itself should speak volumes).

 To sum up, money permitting, we would have no hesitation in booking another dive trip to the Similan islands, and will rave about the marine life experienced , as we continue to travel the world. Most of the diving happened post-tsunami and still produced an opportunity of a lifetime to observe what we can only imagine to be some of the best diving in the world.

 Yours sincerely,

                             Ivana & Alan Kulas-Reid.

Appeared in Diver April 2004
Junk Male
Divernet
The Junk, groaning under the weight of the food supplies it carries, provides a unique way of exploring Thailand's underwater world - eat a meal, dive it off, eat a meal, dive it off... But it's far from junk food, and Andy Blackford was happy

A LITTLE WAY OFFSHORE AT PATONG IN PHUKET, there runs a coral reef of extraordinary colour and complexity. A bewildering number of species is packed into this narrow fringe, each fighting for its survival in a viciously competitive environment.
     Here, the ugly vies incessantly with the beautiful. Like an alternating current, the atmosphere of the reef flickers between urgent desire and cold, murderous cupidity.
     A few yards behind the shoreline, there lies a reef even more vividly colourful, and infinitely more diverse. Here, too, a bewildering number of species is packed into a tiny area, each fighting for its survival in a viciously competitive environment.
     Drama is seldom more than an arm's length away. Male "great whites", cruising in from Europe and Australia, snap up the exotic little creatures who seem almost to hurl themselves into the jaws of their predators.
     Smaller, younger specimens swim in the wake of these great whites, hoping to pick up discarded morsels - but, being inexperienced, they quickly get into deep water.
     Sadly, little is being done to protect this fragile environment and its vulnerable inhabitants. Already, most of the morals are damaged or dead.
     Nevertheless, to the diver, it still affords a fascinating glimpse of another world - a world so incredibly shallow that it is difficult to surface without at least a hundred bars.

So there we were, 30 miles off the mainland and 30m off one of the densely wooded islands that pepper the Andaman Sea. l was the sad old gooseberry in a group of love-struck couples, so it fell to me to dive with Jerome, our guide.
     We were surrounded by clouds of tiny reef fish when we came across a brace of leopard sharks lying prone on the sandy seabed. They resembled nothing more than a pair of strange and exotic stringed instruments that might have been jettisoned by the members of a private slave orchestra when the pleasure barge of a fabulously wealthy oriental potentate was boarded by swarthy, cutlass-wielding pirates, and the entire ship's complement slaughtered like pigs.
     In addition, I couldn't help noticing that the fish were very similar in shade and pattern to a thong worn by Kylie Minogue in a recent photo session for Loaded.
     Jerome poked and pestered them until they rose grudgingly from the bottom and swam slowly away - but not before I noticed a long piece of fishing line trailing from the mouth of the larger specimen.
     I pointed this out to Jerome, who finned smartly after them and grabbed the line. I fully expected him to lose his fingers - the fish was a good 2m long, and gloves are banned on The Junk. But, inexorably, he reeled it in, thrashing and squirming. Then, to my horror, he threw his arms about it in a passionate embrace.
     I stared, transfixed, as he grappled with the shark, finally wrenching it onto its back and grabbing its exposed fins with both hands. It lapsed instantly into a state of docile acquiescence. My heart rate was already pushing 180. But now Jerome nodded frantically at me and I realised that he wanted me to remove the hook from the fish's lip.
     This proved difficult: the hook was big and rusty, and shark lip has roughly the same consistency as Kevlar.
     Eventually, however, I prised it out and Jerome released his captive, who righted himself and swam tetchily away without so much as a thank-you.
     Later, back on The Junk, I asked him how long it had taken him to master the art of subduing huge fish with his bare hands.
     "Hmm?" he replied absently. "Actually, I've never tried it before. I once saw someone do it on the telly."

The ornate bronze bell in The Junk's saloon was rung to announce mealtimes and dive briefings. In practice, this meant that it sounded once every 10 minutes. The food was big, beautiful and frequent. First Breakfast at 7am consisted chiefly of toast and coffee. But Second Breakfast (which awaited us on our return from the First Dive) was a tour de force of eggs, crispy bacon, sausage, pancakes and syrup, fruit and yoghurt.
     During the brief interval between lunch and dinner, each a mouth-watering, sometimes mouth-scorching, buffet of Thai specialities, we were bombarded with banana cake and biscuits. It lent a whole new meaning to the term "junk food".
     Be warned - you could become seriously obese on this boat. In the list of emergency contact numbers on the saloon bulkhead, Weightwatchers came second only to the Patong recompression facility.
     The briefings were thorough and intelligent. Jerome put each dive in the context of a lovingly drawn plan of the island in question and its reef system, outlining the topography and the currents, often strong, that we were likely to encounter.
     Then he would describe the resident fauna, illustrating each species from the boat's exhaustive library of reference books on local marine ecology. "Look out for the Fat-Arsed Grumble. The juveniles devour their parents immediately after hatching and the adults have been known to swap dorsal fins to confuse predators."
     Then we would try to kit up before the piratical-looking but infinitely-obliging crew did it for us. As we sat on the tubes of the little inflatable, the intricately tattooed cox'n would run through his check list: "Fins! Weighbelt! Camela!"
     And then we were off. I discovered early on that my air consumption was appalling. I can't imagine why. I had just completed a 180-mile ultra-marathon and was as fit as Paula Radcliffe's whippet. Nevertheless, I regularly had to come up a good 10 minutes before even the most hard-smoking, jittery novice.
     It was humiliating at first, but I soon discovered the upside. Hanging on a buoy line during a 6m safety stop, I suddenly found myself at the centre of a shoal of around 200 chevron barracuda. They ignored me. I affected the sort of nonchalance cultivated by bomb disposal experts in the line of duty.

The Similan Islands are a designated national park, which means that fishing is prohibited within their waters. Designating, of course, is one thing - policing another. But although we met a number of squid boats just hanging, er, innocently around, the situation on the islands is apparently improving.
     Three years ago, the government appointed a new chief ranger. Until then, the park had fallen under the jurisdiction of the Forestry Department. The new bloke is a passionate diver and marine biologist. He fired all the existing rangers - they were taking bribes from fishermen - and for his troubles, someone tried to shoot him. But he persevered and personally trained up his new recruits to Dive Master standard.
     As a result, the turtles are back. We came across a group of three hawksbills - never seen that before - not to mention dozens of individuals.
     The reef fish are clearly prospering. The caves in the granite cliffs were teeming with fry and there were times when I couldn't see my buddy through clouds of fusiliers, grunts and snappers.
     Jerome turned out to be a splendid guide. He was incredibly knowledgeable and possessed the eyes of an eagle. He would point out a whitetip reef shark, then abruptly shift his attention to some tiny worm-like thing, wriggling about on a coral head, and frantically scribble out on his slate: "juvenile harlequin ghost pipefish"!
     The islands attract big pelagic visitors. Mantas and whale sharks are relatively common during their respective seasons - which, needless to say, didn't coincide with my own trip. But the sheer quantity and variety of the local fauna was breath-taking (not literally, of course; that would be dangerous).

The owner taught English in Taiwan before he was seized by the absurd notion of restoring a near-derelict Chinese junk and turning it into a dive boat.
     Everything was wrong with her. Her keel was broken and her previous owner had added a lot of green wood to the superstructure, which had swiftly turned to cheese in the relentless heat and humidity of the Andaman Sea.
     "The good news was, she'd carried cargoes of charcoal and salt. The charcoal had kept the hull dry and the salt had petrified it. You had to drill a hole to get a nail into her."
     Frank paid just $10,000 for this hulk, and actually considered sawing up the timber and selling it to furniture manufacturers. She was made of takien tong - a local wood that is heavier than water and, fortunately for Frank and his shipwrights, poisonous to insects. Instead, he invested a further $500,000 and transformed her into one of the finest vessels on the coast.
     An ancient Chinaman came out of retirement to supervise the renovation. He accepted just $2 a day more than the other workers. "Except for electric tools, he used only traditional techniques. There were no drawings, other than a few lines in the sand.
     "When it came to working out the optimum space between decks, they told me: 'Bring your tall friend along tomorrow'. He was the closest thing we had to a tape measure."
     The crew-members are Buddhists and extremely respectful of the spirit of the boat. Every sailing is accompanied by firecrackers, and gifts of food and drink are offered at a shrine in the saloon.
     "They say she has a bad temper and can make people sick if she doesn't receive the proper obeisance. On the other hand, all the carpenters working on the boat enjoyed amazing success in the National Lottery."
     Chin (he of the head-to-foot tattoo) had been a crew-member since the boat was completed, and had special responsibility for observing religious rites and for appeasing Macha Poh, the goddess of the sea.
     On the trip back to Patong we were press-ganged into raising the sails. Junks are notoriously slow, and with only the mildest of zephyrs ruffling the canvas, the more energetic passengers were able to swim a complete circuit of the ship without being left behind.
     I turned in early to my air-conditioned, en-suite cabin in the bows and slept like a baby (I woke up every hour and cried).

It was dawn as we chugged into port, and I was faced with the pleasant prospect of a day in town before my flight to Bangkok.
     Patong, in a weird way, is a highly advanced society. It's where the world is heading. Anything is possible, everything is available - right now.
     Some of it's real, most of it's counterfeit. Pirate CDs, real gold, fool's gold, fake Tag Heuers, pretend love, real affection, "Armani" suits in 24 hours, false leers, heartfelt smiles. Don't like the price? Here, take my calculator - tell me how much you want to pay!
     It's chaos, a cataract of instant gratification, the logical and unavoidable consequence of the digital revolution. This is a society in which intellectual property is theft. Where anything goes, the only alien concept is that of royalties.
     Is the three-quid DVD the real thing? Is it a high-quality copy? Or a rough knock-off, grabbed off a cinema screen with a hand-held camera?
     Is the pretty bar girl really a bloke? You won't know until you get them home.
















June Hong Chian Lee
The owners invited me to join a green season or low season trip on The Junk / June Hong Chian Lee from September, 25 to 29, 2004. The trip started with a pick up and very warm welcome enroute to Chalong Bay where the boat was on anchor. Live-Aboard trips at this time of year cover the normal day sites for Phuket. Koh Raya Yai, Koh Raya Noi, Shark Point, Anemone Reef, and the surrounding sites of Koh Phi Phi, Koh Bida Noi, Koh Bida Yai.

Once on board the familiarization tour of the boat and briefing was done by Switzerland native Jerome. The boat familiarization tour and briefing with a bit of unpacking was followed by the first of many delicious meals. The food on The Junk is a mix of Thai dishes and Western cuisine. As somebody who lives on Phuket and eats rice or noodles all the time, it was nice to not only eat what is always wonderful Thai cuisine, but eating Western dishes was a treat for me. Meals consist of classic Thai dishes with rice, noodles, chicken, pork, meat, fish, fried calamari and Western classics like pepper steak, fried chicken, french fries, and hot dogs. Lunch and Dinner was always accompanied by salads with proper dressing options and fresh fruit. Breakfast is wonderful with eggs, bacon, ham, toast, jam and juice. Snacks were always available as well. The coffee/tea station is well equipped for those of us who like a bit of coffee or tea at anytime of the day.

The boat’s air-conditioned throughout and there’s always plenty of shade on the decks. There’s an extensive library of books, Mini Discs and DVD's all hooked up to a proper set of Boston Acoustic speakers. Not only does the boat have extensive entertainment options, but the crew is quite entertaining as well. Always a Thai smile, willing to help with gear, assistance on and off the dinghy and an overall feeling that this crew is of course working, but enjoying the work as well.

While diving, I was truly amazed at the timing of The Junk. We dove sites hours before day boats, when the sea life is much better. The reason for this is the ability to moor or anchor on or near sites that allow divers to dive while day boat divers are still being picked up or enroute to the sites. The diving as a result of strategic placement of the boat during this low season route was wonderful. I saw very healthy soft corals, leopard sharks, sting rays, mantas, and even a few black tip reef sharks. During a portion of 36 hours on Koh Raya Noi, I did not see one other dive boat. In addition to that, I was truly amazed that during a 4 day live-aboard trip the only divers I saw underwater where the guests from The Junk. This is something that is almost impossible to do in waters of Phuket, The Junk boat provided that. Truly Amazing Thailand & Truly Amazing June Hong Chian Lee!

As somebody that has dove the World and been on all types of boats, I can truly recommend this live-aboard trip in the low season of Phuket. I had a wonderful trip and it is obvious that The Junk / June Hong Chian Lee is not only great service, diving, accommodations, and food, but also a really good value. I say this because, what you pay on this type of boat, during this time of year, is a really really great value for money spent and service received.

Jamie Connor
Owner & Founder Of Diveguide.com

Guests and crew of our x-mass 2000 cruise

 

Lasting impressions

The best way to describe a project such as the junk ‘June Hong Chian Lee’ is as being, ‘authentically renovated’ but she is much, much, more than that. Nowadays mixing together the old and the new has become somewhat of a traditional necessity but inconspicuously blending them together creates pure magic.

Just imagine your treading the same boards as those intrepid sailors did over thirty years ago; although instead of having to carry heavy charcoal about and endure hot and cramped living quarters, its quite the opposite. The cabins are now more than ample with their own private bathrooms, and the heaviest thing you will need to lift are the pages of a book or magazine! As for sweating? forget it, the boat’s air-conditioned throughout and there’s always plenty of shade on the decks. If however, you need to escape the sunshine (and lets face it everyone does at some point!) and the shades just not enough, there’s a selection of onboard entertainment lurking behind the hand carved facades of shelves, cabinets and draws in the salon. There’s an extensive library of books, Mini Discs and Video’s all readily available; many a returning guest now familiar with the systems, know they are more than welcome to bring their own choices; but thankfully not everyone listens to Waylon Jennings and Motorhead!

One dreads to think what the food was like in those cheerless days but not to worry, today I found the same quality you find in top-notch hotels; a truly comprehensive menu of appetizing local and international flavours; add the panoramic splendors, a touch of nostalgia and a slight sea breeze, and alfresco is the order of the day.

The interruption between the seemingly steady flow of meals and snacks is of course, the diving, the quality of which speaks for itself, particularly as the majority of the sites visited are listed in the ‘Top Ten’ destinations in the world. The dive crew are not only well-versed in their highlights, but have a few secrets as well. Accessing these underwater treasures is done from a safe distance, that is to say, without the boat dropping divers straight onto the site and then maneuvering slowly, and noisily away. The June Hong Chian Lee’ has the answer; dinghies, not everyone’s cup of tea I know, but when the routine is so meticulously handled by a well trained crew, any hesitations are quickly brushed aside and the benefits become quite clear, if not obvious.

On a final note, it escapes me as to why a splendid vessel such as this has to maintain a label generally associated with unsatisfactory consumables, it appears that not everything is accepted for what it is. I personally feel that the junk is setting the standards for others to follow, and follow they will, and after all they say that opposites attract!

Paul Lees writer of the book "Diving In Thailand" February 2000

 

February 16, 1999: Outstanding! Every aspect of this trip was fantastic and made unforgettable memories. Well done to all! Great ship, great crew, great food fantastic diving and people, wow!!

Tania & Amir

 

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Owner: Dive Inn Co., Ltd.
Address:6 Koktanod Road, Kata Beach,
 T.Karon, A.Muang, Phuket 83100, Thailand.
Tel: 66-76-284568   Fax: 66-76-333495
e-mail: info@thejunk.com
www.thejunk.com

Last updated March 03, 2010
Diving Phuket Thailand Similan Surin.